Blown Away
shoots | Jan 3, 2024
Blown Away
Homewears
Karoline Vitto
Rooted in personal experience and a commitment to broadening representation, this London designer is setting the new standard
Karoline Vitto debuts her Spring 2025 solo show at London Fashion Week
In the world of fashion, few debut solo shows carry the weight of anticipation as Karoline Vitto’s did at London Fashion Week. Her appearance on the London stage marked a significant moment, not only for the designer herself but also for the industry at large. With an approach deeply rooted in personal experience and a commitment to representing a broader spectrum of body types, Vitto’s work challenges the norms and paves the way for a more inclusive future in fashion.
Vitto, originally from Brazil, has made waves in the fashion industry for her innovative approach to design. Her work is characterized by a meticulous focus on the female form, creating garments that both celebrate and accommodate the body's natural curves. This approach stems from a deeply personal place, as she has often felt a disconnect between her body and the offerings of mainstream fashion. “It just came from a really personal place of me not seeing myself there and me wanting to try these pieces on,” Vitto reflects. This desire to see herself represented in fashion led her to a path of creating designs that not only fit but also empower women who, like her, have often been overlooked by the industry.
Her first solo show at London Fashion Week, which followed a successful debut in Milan supported by Dolce & Gabbana, was a testament to her vision. The London show was fully independent, a fact that Vitto sees as both a challenge and a reward. “It feels a bit different as well to be doing it without such a big structure… it’s more challenging but it’s also really rewarding because I think we’re learning a lot along the way and we are just deciding things the way that we want them to come together based on our vision,” she says. This independence has allowed her to stay true to her design ethos, ensuring that her creations reflect her ideals without compromise.
Vitto’s designs are known for their fluidity and the way they move with the body, an aspect that makes the traditional fashion show format particularly well-suited to her work. Despite exploring other formats, she finds herself repeatedly drawn back to the energy and excitement of the runway. “Every time I think about it and every time I do a show, I’m thinking, ‘Oh maybe next time I should do something different.’ But then when it comes to it, I just really get the excitement from the show and it’s just a buzz of energy,” she admits. The runway, with its vibrant energy and live presentation, offers a unique opportunity to see her clothes in motion, on real bodies, an experience that is central to understanding the full impact of her work.
The casting of her shows is another vital component of Vitto’s vision. Her models are not just anonymous figures showcasing the clothes; they are integral to the narrative she is building. “The models really do make it come to life. They have been so supportive of the brand. They become like friends of the brand and part of the story, part of what we do,” Vitto emphasizes. This close relationship between designer and model enriches the storytelling aspect of her shows, making each presentation a collaborative effort that resonates on a deeper level.
At the heart of Vitto’s design philosophy is a commitment to wearability, an aspect of fashion often regarded as mundane by other designers. For Vitto, however, it is where the real challenge—and excitement—lies. “For me, it’s just thinking about different ways of creating shapes around the body in a way that really just functions,” she explains. This practical approach to design does not diminish the aesthetic appeal of her work; rather, it enhances it by ensuring that her garments are not only beautiful but also comfortable and functional. It is this balance between form and function that sets her work apart.
Vitto’s dedication to inclusivity and representation is not something she consciously thinks about anymore—it has become second nature, embedded in the DNA of her brand. “For us, it’s ultimately about finding something that works for [our customers] and makes them feel good,” she says. This organic approach to diversity in fashion is refreshing in an industry that often treats inclusivity as a trend rather than a standard. Vitto’s work offers a powerful reminder that true representation comes from a place of authenticity and a genuine desire to reflect the world as it is.
As London Fashion Week celebrated its 40th anniversary, Vitto’s show was a reminder of the city’s long-standing commitment to nurturing new talent. London has always been a fertile ground for emerging designers, offering them a platform to experiment and innovate. For Vitto, being part of this tradition is particularly meaningful. “London Fashion Week is always about nurturing new talent… what excites me the most about London is that there’s always newness and there’s always space for people to try different things out,” she says. Her journey from an aspiring designer, watching shows online, to a featured participant in London Fashion Week, is a full-circle moment that highlights the importance of this nurturing environment.
Karoline Vitto’s debut solo show at London Fashion Week was more than just a fashion event; it was a celebration of diversity, inclusivity, and the power of personal experience in shaping creative vision. Her work challenges the industry to expand its definitions of beauty and wearability, offering a glimpse into a future where fashion is truly for everyone. As she continues to evolve and refine her craft, there is no doubt that Vitto will remain a formidable force in the industry, pushing the boundaries of what fashion can—and should—be.