STAMM

In the sun-soaked city of Copenhagen, STAMM took audiences to a rooftop basketball court at a local primary school. The show kicked off with a troupe of children releasing carrier pigeons from crates, in a nod from founder Elisabet Stamm to the power of youthful energy. The collection, aptly titled, Best Wishes, sent a message of positivity – physically and metaphorically.

Toying with the playful energy of anime, models wore bleached spiky wigs, blue contact lenses, larger-than-life soft jackets, pastel hues, and acid-wash denim. Stamm, a previous Zalando Sustainability Award winner, kept the focus on material innovation, using fabrics like Tencel, laser-burned denim, and carbon-dyed nylon. While the STAMM wardrobe is perhaps best suited to Gen-Zers, it was positive to see how sustainable approaches to design can still achieve the cool factor. 

REMAIN 

Sheer chiffon, soft greys and chic accessories defined REMAIN’s SS25 collection, under new creative director Martin Asbjørn. Copenhagen's beloved designer was brought in last year after shuttering his eponymous label in 2022, to secure profits for REMAIN. 

Calvin Klein-esque ‘90s minimalism was a clear motivator, as sporty staples were given a feminine update. As foreseen, the focus was on leather, which rendered a wrap-around bomber jacket and cropped hoodie nipped in at the waist. Demure pleated skirts featured mesh inserts while clothing and accessories were coated in sleek pony hair. Despite the slow uptick in sales since the brand launched back in 2019, the REMAIN show endures as a hot ticket on the Copenhagen schedule. And we for one envision this ladylike collection, with a modern twist, doing well commercially when it lands in stores next year. 

Baum und Pferdgarten

Capturing the sporting spirit of the past couple of months, Baum und Pferdgarten brought the Paris Olympics to a Klein blue race track in Copenhagen’s city centre. Preppy pleated skirts and polo shirts, featured alongside a sea of sequin skirts and mini dresses – a signature pairing that has defined the brand over its impressive 25-year journey.

The show looked back a quarter-century of design, and while the imperfectly styled collars, demure skirt lengths and loafer-sock combinations were nothing we haven't seen before, the show felt like a joyful reflection on the brand’s evolution.

Sinéad O'Dwyer

With the picturesque Opera Park and its sparkling harbour as a backdrop, Sinéad O'Dwyer presented her first collection since winning the Zalando Visionary Award – a recognition that came with a €50,000 cash prize and a coveted spot at Copenhagen Fashion Week. The impact of this financial boost was evident, as Sinéad presented a polished and thoughtfully curated collection.

Balancing commercial appeal with her signature craft-focused details, the line-up included deep blue denim separates and simple polo dresses alongside more intricate shibari-inspired harnesses and knits. True to form, the casting was a highlight, making history as the first fashion show to feature a blind model on the runway, but also further proving that Sinéad’s clothes look great on every body – no matter how intricate and technical the design. 

ROTATE

It's been a momentous week for the upscale partywear brand Rotate. Recognised earlier this year as Copenhagen’s fastest-growing fashion label, Rotate further solidified its position by launching an exclusive collaboration with Copenhagen-born jewellery brand Pandora and opened its first flagship store, timed perfectly with the start of Copenhagen Fashion Week. For its much anticipated SS25 show, Rotate brought crowds, including Pamela Anderson on the front row and Toni Garrn on the runway, to the grand Garden of the Royal Library.

The collection featured romantic flourishes, puff skirts, lace, floral embroideries and wispy fabrics that caught the wind. The closing look featured hundreds of Pandora chains piled together to create a sweeping metallic fringe. While the collection offered some moments of brilliance, certain pieces were not quite up to scratch in terms of quality. Nonetheless, Rotate’s growing influence is undeniable, and in the absence of GANNI, it’s refreshing to see another powerhouse on Copenhagen’s fashion stage.