Female Founded: Abel

The turning point came when Frances discovered that a staggering 95% of fragrance molecules were derived from fossil fuels, sparking her mission to create a modern, sophisticated perfume that was 100% natural. With Abel, she’s not just crafting scents, she’s pioneering a new era of fragrance. One where sustainability, science, and artistry converge seamlessly.

Because London pulled up a chair to chat with Frances about all things Abel. From its early days in Amsterdam, to its current home in New Zealand, it's a destination that beautifully marries innovation and nature. We discuss the challenges of creating 100% natural perfumes, working with master perfumer Isaac Sinclair and Dr Franny Grau, the role of environmental care throughout production, and what’s next for this bold fragrance house that continues to break new ground. With a newly reimagined brand identity, including sustainable packaging and cutting-edge formulations, Abel is proving that fragrance can be as pure as it is powerful.

What inspired you to start Abel? What gap in the market did you set out to fill?

The turning point came when I learned that an estimated 95% of fragrance molecules are derived from petrochemicals. Coming from winemaking, an industry that celebrates nature and craftsmanship, that reliance on fossil fuels felt fundamentally wrong. I wanted to create a perfume that was as modern and sophisticated as the best fine fragrances, but made entirely from nature. At the time, that simply didn’t exist. Abel was born from that conviction; a mission to prove that the future of fragrance could be 100% natural and 0% petrochemicals.

Raw materials can sometimes be allergenic or lack longevity when used in perfumery. How did you avoid these issues with your 100% natural formulations?

It’s true that working with naturals comes with its challenges - performance, consistency, and allergens among them. Our solution has been to combine traditional natural extracts with cutting-edge biotechnology and upcycled natural ingredients. We really take a precision approach to our development process, working with Master Perfumers and the world's top laboratories. This helps us with things like allergens, for example in Nurture a soft and low allergen fragrance, we removed the bergapten molecule which is known to be a cause in pigmentation from the bergamot oil we use. The dramatically expanded palette also gives us access to long-lasting, precision molecules made from plants which means our perfume can perform on par with synthetics, whilst staying true to our 100% natural promise.

How does the fragrance sector continue to energize your creativity?

Fragrance is one of the few art forms that engages directly with memory and emotion, it’s endlessly inspiring. Science is evolving faster than ever, and every new natural or biotech ingredient opens creative doors. I’m also energised by the broader shift happening in the industry: a move toward transparency, responsibility, and conscious innovation. It’s a thrilling time to be part of reimagining what fragrance can be.

You’ve recently undergone a rebrand. Tell me about Abel’s new look.

This relaunch has been many years in the making and goes far beyond rebrand - we've literally reimagined every element of the product and even our business model. While the reformulation aspect was the key driver for the project, the packaging, and visual identity also play a major role. Our new design is quietly radical: glass bottles made from recycled glass, biodegradable caps, and boxes crafted entirely from post-consumer materials. We’ve also reduced our paper packaging footprint by 96%. It’s the culmination of over a decade of refining, evolving, and striving to do better in every way.

Tell me about working with master perfumer Isaac Sinclair.

Isaac has been with Abel since the very beginning, when the idea of a 100% natural perfume house still seemed impossible. He brings a rare combination of technical mastery and creative intuition. Together, we’ve learned what it means to make natural perfume at the highest level, casting aside convention, pushing boundaries, and creating something deeply modern. Isaac treats every ingredient with precision, but also knows when to strip things back to let a scent breathe. Our creative process is very much a dialogue, both coming with ideas, challenging each other and typically having a lot of fun doing it.

How are you emphasising care for the planet in your products?

Care is embedded in everything we do, from the raw materials we source to the packaging we design. Our entire collection is 100% natural, fossil-fuel free, and made using renewable biotechnological ingredients. Behind the scenes, we’ve localised our supply chain and built a circular packaging system using recycled glass and biodegradable components. Sustainability for us isn’t a marketing term for us, it’s really a design principle and a core part of our raison d'etre.

How has place – be it New Zealand or Amsterdam – been important to Abel’s journey?

Place is everything. Abel was born in Amsterdam, a city that celebrates creativity and design, and has matured in New Zealand, a country deeply connected to nature. That balance of innovation and groundedness defines who we are. New Zealand’s landscapes remind me daily of why this mission matters, while Amsterdam gave me the boldness to start in the first place.

For women interested in starting their own brand, what advice would you give based on your experiences?

Start with conviction. A strong sense of purpose will carry you through the inevitable challenges (find joy in the problem solving). Build slowly and with integrity, momentum that comes from authenticity lasts far longer than hype. And don’t wait until you have everything figured out (progress over perfection!); clarity often comes from doing and there's nothing wrong with trying, failing and trying again, sometimes it's the only way to make progress. 

What’s next for Abel? Are there any exciting launches our readers can look forward to?

This post relaunch chapter feels like our most exciting chapter yet. Our focus remains very much on pushing boundaries in natural perfumery. That said, the creative juices are definitely flowing! With some incredible new scents in development, and some really cool innovations in the pipeline too.

Find your scent here!