Big Shoes to Fill

Naming Puma the sportswear brand of the moment might sound like yet another fashion proclamation. After all, nothing screams ‘hype’ quite like another trainer drop yielding queues that snake halfway around Soho. But in this case, Puma’s recent success is the result of some artfully engineered and really well-timed projects. 

After years spent in the shadow of its literal elder brothers (Rudolf Dassler founded Puma in 1948 following a bitter feud with his brother Adolf, who went on to create Adidas), Puma is gunning for the very top of the style podium this spring. 

The brand’s ongoing collaborations with Rihanna and A$AP Rocky never quite managed to tempt the fashion pack, but more recently Puma has shown an appreciation for the coolest names in the industry, collaborating with the likes of Collina Strada, Coperni, Feben, Ahluwalia and Ottolinger as well as being seen on Dua Lipa and Em Rata. The momentum is showing no signs of slowing down. This year, Puma’s marketing team has been working overtime in securing an endless stream of partnerships, with the trainers being spotted at Louis Gabriel Nouchi and Lueder shows. 

At Sinead O’Dwyer’s AW25 show, classic design codes were styled alongside a sportier footwear moment, courtesy of, you guessed it, Puma. Of course, filled with her signature Sinead-isms, the collection got the sportstyle treatment as models donned the re-released edition of the Puma ballet flat. Maintaining that delicate silhouette but updated with a honed athleticism, the ballet flat paired with the show’s bubble skirts and stretchy, woven pieces gave the shoes a new stage to shine on.

But it was Balenciaga’s explosive yet underwhelming collaboration with Puma on the Sunday of Paris Fashion Week, which saw the viral Speedcat undergo the signature Balenciaga treatment, complete with preworn, distressed detailing and premium gold lettering, that really set tongues wagging.  If not too exciting, this was a healthy collaboration nonetheless.. 

It’s not just the high-fashion reinvention of the 1999 streamlined Speedcat (granted, a staple) that has been propelling the brand’s popularity in the last year. Puma’s strategy of having one foot in the sports world and another in the fashion world is paying off in other ways. The re-release of the Mostro and the ballet flats, both fresh re-imaginations of the classic Mary-Jane shape, have made an imprint. Both styles borrow elements from fashion’s favourite feminine shape, but with an added modern functionality. The Mostro’s signature spiked, rubber sole and velcro crossover straps are more ostensibly streetwear but their almost non-existent heel and soft, streamlined upper are equally as reminiscent of the iconic 90s flat. Think ballet pumps without the blisters. 

These trend-led, low-sole shapes are really resonating with the fashion fleet, and are proof that a more considered approach to trainer design can have real impact. Of course, luxury fashion and streetstyle’s truce has been seen (and shopped) for the past few years, but so rarely does a sportstyle brand implement themselves so seamlessly as Puma’s latest fashion forward forays. Remember the divisive jelly shoe trend of yesteryear? We do, all too well. While maybe we didn’t bite the first time round, the FENTY x Puma Cat Jelly Shoes – releasing ahead of summer – can perhaps tempt us towards the jellied side… 

It’s safe to say it’s survival of the fittest at the top of the trainer scene, and Puma has shown that brands will have to pay much closer attention to the fashion world if they want to keep a foot in the game.